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Altos de Chavón is, without a doubt, one of the most popular tourist attractions in the Eastern region of the Dominican Republic, an essential item for your TO DO list when visiting the resort.
Since its inception, the essence of Altos de Chavón has been art, hence it’s common name “the village of artists”. Designed by the Dominican architect José Antonio Caro, and created by Italian master set designer and cinema stylist Roberto Coppa, Chavón’s cobbled streets were destined to become a celebration of Dominican art and culture.
Today, Altos de Chavón is not only a magical place to enjoy the view, a drink and maybe dinner, but it is also where you can experience and admire Dominican artisans at work.
The following article, published originally in our sister magazine, TODO Casa de Campo, issue #9, is a brief review of Don Bernardo’s work in Altos de Chavón which explains why the village is like his second home.
Bernardo de los Santos as seen in TODO Casa de Campo
Bernardo de los Santos, 3 decades of weaving history
In the main plaza, to the side of the St. Stanislaus church, you’ll find Bernardo de los Santos, a fixture in Altos de Chavón since it opened in 1981, “I’ve been here so long, that Altos de Chavón is like a home to me”, he told us.
At first glance, Bernardo may be mistaken for a simple salesman, peddling knick-knacks and souvenirs, yet Bernardo is actually an inspiring and dedicated artist, who uses traditional techniques to create maracas, baskets, beach bags, bracelets and even hats, with his bare hands
It can be a thankless work, “sometimes I sell nothing, somedays I make US$20, and on a good day I can make US$50”, and yet Bernardo is one of the friendliest and happiest people you will find on the cobbles of Altos de Chavón.
His dedication and enthusiasm for his work is tireless. The only boy in a family full of girls, Bernardo takes his inspiration from his father, who actually taught him many of his skills. “I also learn by watching others, I see what they are doing and then I do the same, it always comes out good”, he told us, a real testament to an innate skill and ability to continue to learn and innovate.
His principal material is the leaf of the “palma cana”, the Hispaniola Palmetto palm tree found in abundance across the Dominican Republic. The leaf of this tree, colloquially referred to as the “mata”, has many uses, principally to create thatched palm roofs seen on traditional houses “casas tipicas”, which can be seen around Casa de Campo, such as at the Lago Grill, and the Casa de Campo main entrance.
He uses the palma cana to weave his beautiful baskets, beach bags and straw hats, a process which takes him several days to complete. He begins by drying out the leaves in the sun, following which he rips them into strips, and then the weaving begins. With 3 decades of practice, his nimble yet hardened fingers fold the strips one over another and then again and again to create a “trenza”, a plait. These plaits are then sewn together using a machine he has at home to create the hats, while other styles are completely woven. The end result is so professional it’s hard to believe he made them himself.
To make the baskets the strips are wrapped around and around a thinner stip of palma cana, which he calls “stuffing” and then woven together until the basket is finished, the bags are made in the same way. A process that may seem simple, but is yet one that requires hours of hard work and incredible skill. If they catch the eye of a tourist, the baskets sell for upwards of US$10, depending on the size, the hats for between US$8 and US$10 and the beach bags for US$20.
He also creates maracas, using nothing more than a dried fruit called higuero and a stick. The fruit of the calabash tree, higueros are large, green and round, and can be seen growing all across the resort; on the golf course, in private gardens and on the side of the road. As it is inedible, it is used to create all kinds of artisan objects from maracas to lamps and bowls.
To make his colorful maracas, he first completely hollows out the fruit, leaves it to dry in the sun for several days, adds dried corn to the middle and inserts the stick. After that the maraca is painted in bright colors with beautiful pictures, part of the process which Bernardo admits he doesn’t do himself, “I have no talent for painting” he says.
From 8am to 6pm Bernardo toils away on the cobbles of Chavón. When he is not selling, you will find him creating the braids or plaits for the hats, weaving the baskets, or carving the sticks for the maracas. He is an honest, hard-working and talented man, so next time you’re in Altos de Chavón, whether you’re a tourist or a villa owner, take a look, I guarantee you’ll find something you like.
The following is a collection of images taken from Bernardo’s stand at Altos de Chavón:
